Review of the UTMB by Colin Stark
Called the ‘big dance’ the Ultra Trail Mont Blanc (UTMB) is the best and greatest trail running event on the planet. I was lucky enough to get my place through the ballet and through index points which I’ve earned through racing in the Ultra Trail World Series races in Snowdonia 100k in 2022, 50k in 2023 and 100k in 2024. So, it took 3 years to earn my place.
The race starts in Chamonix, France and is an anticlockwise loop around Mont Blanc passing through Italy and Switzerland. The trails are used by many hikers throughout the summer months, and there is a cut off time of 46 hours to complete the 108mile loop with 10k metres of ascent.
Approx. 2500 take up the challenge and are ready on the start line at least 2 hours before the 5.45pm start time. The Elite runners are introduced individually to the massive crowds and 5 minutes before the start the famous UTMB music ‘Conquest of Paradise’ by Vangelis bellows out. The music is iconic and the most beautiful, unique start to any race as the emotions of all the effort and preparation to be on that start line mean there wasn’t a dry eye among any of us.
Off we go through the streets of Chamonix with thousands of spectators who have to be the most enthusiastic crowd I have ever known. The weather forecast said rain from 6pm and for once it was spot on with the heavens opening just 15 minutes into the race. I had opted not to start with my rain jacket but I had it ready in my race belt so I could get it on quickly while still running and not losing any places.
The first big climb came 10k in at Les Houches where my Leki poles came out to join the party. I knew Kelly (wife), Harry (son), Ben and Anna (friends and also Runners Next the Sea members) would be somewhere on the climb and I was looking forward to seeing them. It was a party atmosphere despite the weather and everyone around me was highly amused by the amount of shouting from Ben and Harry!
The first checkpoint was in St Gervais at 14 miles and the whole town comes out to support the runners. I was going well and felt good and focused for the night ahead and although the rain was still hard it wasn’t a problem, and I was happy with my kit choice.
We went onto Les Contamines and the famous Notra Dame climb. I’ve never witnessed such energy and passion from the spectators, and I was in awe that the crowds were willing to stand on the side of a mountain in the horrendous rain to support the runners. It was truly amazing.
As the climb continued the rain turned to sleet and very heavy snow and I made the decision to put my waterproof trousers and gloves on. I probably did this 30 second too late because I was shaking of cold and now had both sets of kit wet through. I was also feeling the altitude and was dizzy and felt sick. However, stopping was not an option as it was so cold I would have been in real trouble. In total this climb was 2500m and many runners around me were starting to struggle with the cold. The path was a muddy mess with hardly any traction as we summitted (finally!). Its not as if I’m not used to mud, so the decent went well and I managed to overtake quite a few runners despite still feeling really sick and retching often. I did overcook it once and ended up sliding down the mountain on my backside ripping my waterproof trousers.
The next check point was Les Chapieux at 32 miles. All the runners had more than earned their right to be there, but some were already calling it a day. The volunteers were also more serious than usual and everyone who left that check point was told to wear every item of clothing they had. Prior to the race the ‘cold weather kit’ rule had been activated so we all had additional layers. I am never cold usually during a race, even on The Spine race in January, but I had on running tights, waterproof trousers, long sleeve base layer, thermal top, thermal arm warmers, coat, hat and waterproof gloves (not what you would expect in August!)
All through the night was snow, sleet and rain depending on how high we were, and I was still struggling with altitude and sickness which meant I wasn’t really taking on enough fuel and definitely not 2/3 gels an hour which I would normally need.
Eventually the weather improved, and the sun came up as I approached Courmayeur in Italy and I arrived here about 8am, which I was really happy with. This is a major checkpoint and at almost 50 miles it’s just under halfway. It’s also known as the runner’s graveyard as historically lots withdraw at this point due to the mind games of knowing you are only half way and its impossible to do the same distance again.
After Cormayeur my quads were really feeling battered. I just didn’t have my normal energy levels, and it was so frustrating not to be able to push on like I normally would. I was getting overtaken by many runners moving better than me and the long climb to Grand Col Ferret was tortuous and there was a real battle going on between my head and my body. I had obviously been in this place before and it was this experience which helped me keep going, along with a phone call with an old running friend and a text from Kelly.
Despite the good weather and amazing views, the next 30 miles were a low point and it was just a case of grinding it out. However, knowing Kelly, Harry, Ben and Anna would be at Trient, Switzerland kept me focused although I was stumbling about and a bit of a mess. Harry and Ben made the 2 mile climb to meet me before the checkpoint, so it was great to see them. The banter was brilliant ‘aarghh fancy seeing you here’ was the saying of the holiday and Ben took some videos of my incoherent mumblings!
The descent to the checkpoint was slow and painful but I did still manage to pass a few runners. When I got to the checkpoint at 11pm it was buzzing with supporters and volunteers with a party like atmosphere. Unfortunately, I was not in a party mood at this point and Kelly took charge, sorting out my kit, feet and strongly encouraging (!) me to eat more. I really needed the energy boost as I was now approaching 29 hours of running.
I set off into the night again knowing I would see everyone again at Vallorcine but just as I got going, I started having head torch trouble. Luckily the mandatory kit means I had a spare so I wasn’t too worried, but no head torch would have meant an instant DNF as it would be so easy to fall off the side of the mountain.
I arrived in Vallorcine at 2.30am to be greeted by my support crew, and I was feeling much better and managed to eat some cheese and biscuits. Vallorcine is a happy place knowing there is only 1 more mountain between there and Chamonix and only 10 miles to go.
The trail to the final climb is a long slog in the dark, remembering it well from previous events (CCC in 2015 and UTMB in 2018). There is no chatting among the runners at this point as everyone prepares for the final brutal climb. The ascent to La Flegere is very technical with big rocks, tree stumps and tree roots all over the trail. The climb is about 800m before it descends again for 400m then climbs again to 1900m. I felt like it would never end. I was mildly hallucinating and I’m sure I saw a giant mouse, among other things. I’d experienced this before so could see the funny side and was actually feeling much stronger and hoping for a good finish.
On the last descent the sun was rising over Mont Blanc, I was feeling good, and I was determined to make up as many places as I could to make up for such a long bad patch in the middle of the race. Many of the other runners had the same idea as me so we ‘flew’ down the mountain (that’s how it felt anyway) although the reality was probably different. The switch backs came and went, and I managed to overtake at least 10 runners. I met Harry on the outskirts of Chamonix as he wanted to run in with me and I kept looking back to check I wasn’t being chased down.
The finish was really special with Harry beside me and Kelly, Ben and Anna waiting on the line. What a race it was! I really had to push myself to the limits both mentally and physically, but I wouldn’t want it any other way. Seeing other people achieving their dreams in such a special race is so amazing and I’m sure I’ll be back next year when its Ben’s turn to run!!
Race time: 37 hrs 52 mins
Global Rank: 548
Category Rank: 23
Starters: 2,492
Finishers 1,664
